Quality

Fake, imitation, and reconstituted stones are common in the market for Native American-style jewelry. To avoid purchasing non-authentic pieces, it is essential to look for signs of artificial materials, such as dyed howlite, plastic, or resin, which are often used to mimic turquoise, coral, and other stones.

Some informative articles:

Fake turquoise jewelry is hurting Native Americans economically
Counterfeit Native American Art Undercuts Legitimate Artists

Here is a guide to help you identify fake stones in Native American jewelry:

Common Fake Stone Materials

• Dyed Howlite/Magnesite: White howlite is frequently dyed blue or green to look like turquoise. It often has dark, unnatural veins and may feel lighter than real stone.
• Plastic/Resin: Fake stones made of plastic or resin are very light, warm to the touch, and may show casting seams or air bubbles under magnification.
• Composite/Block Turquoise: This is made from crushed turquoise dust mixed with epoxy resin. It is often too perfect in color, lacking the unique, natural variations of real stone.
• Dyed Bone/Plastic Coral: Often used to simulate coral, these may appear too uniform in color and lack the natural, fine striations of real coral. 

Tests to Identify Fake Stones

• The Acetone Test: Gently rub a small, inconspicuous area of the stone with a cotton swab dipped in acetone (nail polish remover). If blue or green color transfers to the swab, the stone is dyed.
• The Heat Test (Use Caution): Real stones are cool to the touch. Plastic or resin fakes will warm up quickly. A hot needle test (touching a hidden spot with a hot needle) will cause plastic to melt or smell, which will not happen with real stone.
• The Magnification Check: Use a jeweler’s loupe to look for inconsistencies. Fakes often have painted-on matrices (veins) that look too perfect, whereas real stones have natural, deep, and irregular inclusions.
• Surface Check: If the “stone” looks too glassy, shiny, or has a uniform, perfect color, it is likely fake. 

Red Flags for Inauthentic Jewelry

• Too Perfect/Uniform: Natural turquoise rarely has perfectly uniform color. Fakes often look identical across multiple stones.
• Visible Glue: If you can see glue between the stone and the bezel, it is a sign of mass production.
• Unusual Weight: Real stones have a, “heavy” or dense feel, while fakes feel surprisingly light.
• Open Backs: Most traditional Native American jewelry has closed backs, while many machine-made, imported imitations have open backs.
• Inexpensive Price: High-quality natural turquoise is expensive. If a piece seems too cheap, it is likely not authentic. 

Tips for Buying Genuine Jewelry

• Buy from Reputable Sellers: Purchase directly from Native American artists, or from established, reputable galleries and dealers who specialize in authentic Native American art.
• Look for Hallmarks: Many artists sign their work with a hallmark, though this is not a guarantee of authenticity on its own.
• Ask for Certification: Reputable sellers will provide information about the artist and the materials used, often with a written guarantee of authenticity.
• Beware of “Made in India” Jewelry: A large amount of inexpensive jewelry designed to look Native American is produced in India and Pakistan, using dyed chips and plastic.