Buying and Recognizing Authentic Native Jewelry
Recognize Authentic Native Art and Buy with Confidence!
Establishing respectful, lasting relationships with Native artists requires a foundation of trust, clear communication, and ethical collaboration that avoids tokenism and cultural appropriation. Key approaches include engaging artists early in the process, ensuring fair compensation, protecting intellectual property, and acknowledging specific cultural, language, and artistic differences.
Key Principles for Building Relationships
- Establish Cultural Safety: Create an environment where artists feel respected and comfortable, which may include providing food, conducting respectful introductions, and allowing time to build rapport.
- Acknowledge Specificity: Understand that “Native” or “Indigenous” is not a monolith. Respect the unique nations, languages, and art forms of the individuals you are engaging.
- Prioritize Direct Communication: Involve artists early in the conceptual stage, not just at the end for final approval, to ensure their voice and vision are authentically represented.
- Transparent Agreements: Clearly define terms, expectations, and compensation, as well as how intellectual property and the artist’s story will be managed.
Where was the piece made?
How do you create your work?
What techniques do you use?
Is it hand-made?What materials do you use?
What is the metal content?
What stones are in the piece?
Are the stones real?
Do you have a Proof of Authenticity?
Fake, imitation, and reconstituted stones are common in the market for Native American-style jewelry. To avoid purchasing non-authentic pieces, it is essential to look for signs of artificial materials, such as dyed howlite, plastic, or resin, which are often used to mimic turquoise, coral, and other stones.
Some informative articles:
Fake turquoise jewelry is hurting Native Americans economically
Counterfeit Native American Art Undercuts Legitimate Artists
Here is a guide to help you identify fake stones in Native American jewelry:
Common Fake Stone Materials
- Dyed Howlite/Magnesite: White howlite is frequently dyed blue or green to look like turquoise. It often has dark, unnatural veins and may feel lighter than real stone.
- Plastic/Resin: Fake stones made of plastic or resin are very light, warm to the touch, and may show casting seams or air bubbles under magnification.
- Composite/Block Turquoise: This is made from crushed turquoise dust mixed with epoxy resin. It is often too perfect in color, lacking the unique, natural variations of real stone.
- Dyed Bone/Plastic Coral: Often used to simulate coral, these may appear too uniform in color and lack the natural, fine striations of real coral.
Tests to Identify Fake Stones
- The Acetone Test: Gently rub a small, inconspicuous area of the stone with a cotton swab dipped in acetone (nail polish remover). If blue or green color transfers to the swab, the stone is dyed.
- The Heat Test (Use Caution): Real stones are cool to the touch. Plastic or resin fakes will warm up quickly. A hot needle test (touching a hidden spot with a hot needle) will cause plastic to melt or smell, which will not happen with real stone.
- The Magnification Check: Use a jeweler’s loupe to look for inconsistencies. Fakes often have painted-on matrices (veins) that look too perfect, whereas real stones have natural, deep, and irregular inclusions.
- Surface Check: If the “stone” looks too glassy, shiny, or has a uniform, perfect color, it is likely fake.
Red Flags for Inauthentic Jewelry
- Too Perfect/Uniform: Natural turquoise rarely has perfectly uniform color. Fakes often look identical across multiple stones.
- Visible Glue: If you can see glue between the stone and the bezel, it is a sign of mass production.
- Unusual Weight: Real stones have a, “heavy” or dense feel, while fakes feel surprisingly light.
- Open Backs: Most traditional Native American jewelry has closed backs, while many machine-made, imported imitations have open backs.
- Inexpensive Price: High-quality natural turquoise is expensive. If a piece seems too cheap, it is likely not authentic.
Tips for Buying Genuine Jewelry
- Buy from Reputable Sellers: Purchase directly from Native American artists, or from established, reputable galleries and dealers who specialize in authentic Native American art.
- Look for Hallmarks: Many artists sign their work with a hallmark, though this is not a guarantee of authenticity on its own.
- Ask for Certification: Reputable sellers will provide information about the artist and the materials used, often with a written guarantee of authenticity.
- Beware of “Made in Phillipines” or Other Country Jewelry: A large amount of inexpensive jewelry designed to look Native American is produced in the Phillipines, India, Pakistan or other countries, using dyed chips and plastic.
Research the specific medium of Native American art you are looking to buy as well as reputable sellers of Native American art. This will empower you when making your purchase because you will be a knowledgeable buyer and you will ask educated questions.
When purchasing Native American art, the appearance, material used and price of the piece are often strong indicators of authenticity.
- Appearance: Authentic Native American art is handmade and will have visual variations among the same items. No two items will be exactly the same.
- Material: Do your research on the specific tribe or region and find out what materials were commonly used for creating art. If the materials seem inappropriate, cheap or more modern, the item may not be authentic.
- Price: Native American art requires craftsmanship to produce such unique and beautiful pieces, and the price should reflect that.
The true value of Native American jewelry lies in its cultural, historical, and artistic significance, blending handmade craftsmanship with traditional, high-quality materials like sterling silver and natural turquoise. Ranging from hundreds to tens of thousands of dollars, value is determined by the artist’s reputation, age, and authenticity, rather than just material weight.
Key Components of Value:
- Artistic & Cultural Significance: These pieces are considered art, representing centuries of indigenous knowledge, stories, and heritage.
- Authentic Craftsmanship: Genuine, handmade pieces often feature slight, unique irregularities, setting them apart from mass-produced imitations. Techniques include hand-stamping, sand-casting, and silver overlay.
- Artist Reputation & Hallmarks: Pieces made by renowned silversmiths or established families, especially those with maker’s marks or signatures, hold higher value.
- Materials: High-quality, natural materials like turquoise (e.g., Sleeping Beauty, Royston), coral, and heavy sterling silver increase worth.
- Age and Condition: Vintage, pre-1950s pieces are highly sought after by collectors.
Identifying Authentic Jewelry:
- Check for Hallmarks: Look for stamped signatures, artist marks, or tribal affiliation tags.
- Inspect the Details: Hand-stamped patterns, uneven stampings, and heavy silverwork are indicators of authenticity.
- Material Quality: Real turquoise often has unique matrices and color variations, while fake stones may look too uniform or have glue residue.
- Source Directly: Purchasing from reputable galleries,, or directly from artists helps ensure authenticity and supports Native communities.
- Avoid “Indian Style”: Items labeled “Indian-style” or “Southwestern-style” are usually not made by Native Americans.
Understanding the, story, and labor behind each piece is crucial to appreciating its true value, which goes far beyond monetary appraisal.
Whether it’s an official certification tag or other proof, it’s advisable to get these supporting materials when making a purchase. If an official certification tag does not come with your product, make sure your receipt includes detailed product descriptions.
- Authenticity
- Documentation
- Hallmarks
- The overall aesthetics of the piece.
- The artist’s reputation
- The scarcity of the artist’s work
- The age of the piece
- The quality of workmanship
- The condition (see specifics below)
- The weight of sterling silver and gold used
- The quality and size of the stones used
It is illegal for shops in the United States to sell fake Native American art, crafts, or items falsely suggesting they are Native-produced, per the Indian Arts and Crafts Act (IACA) of 1990. Violations of this federal truth-in-marketing law can result in significant criminal penalties, including heavy fines or businesses and imprisonment for individuals.
Biggest Native Jewelry Art Fraud Case Revealed
World’s Largest Native American Art Forgery Ring Distributed $12M of Fakes
The “Multi-Multi-Multi-Million-Dollar” Art Fraud That Shook the World
How Investigators Used Invisible Ink to Unmask the Largest-Ever Native American Art Fraud Conspiracy
History’s Biggest Fake American Indian Art Conspiracy Revealed
Biggest Fake Native American Art Conspiracy Revealed
Here are some other cases of Selling Fake Native Jewelry
It’s a piece of Native art from Arizona except that it’s made in China. Or Pakistan. Or Taiwan. Or…
Fake turquoise jewelry is hurting Native Americans economically
Counterfeit Native American Art Undercuts Legitimate Artists
Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 (P.L. 101-644) – The Indian Arts and Crafts Board, an agency located in the U.S. Department of the Interior, was created by Congress to promote the economic development of American Indians and Alaska Natives through the expansion of the Indian arts and crafts market. A top priority is the implementation and enforcement of the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990, a truth-in-advertising law that provides criminal and civil penalties for marketing products as “Indian-made” when such products are not made by Indians, as defined by the Act.
If you purchase an art or craft product represented to you as Indian-made, and you learn that it is not, first contact the dealer to request a refund. If the dealer does not respond to your request, you can also contact your local Better Business Bureau, Chamber of Commerce, and the local District Attorney’s office, as you would with any consumer fraud complaint. Second, contact the Indian Arts and Crafts Board with your written complaint regarding violations of the Act.
IACA Brochure: Know the Law
Should I Report a Potential Violation?
Yes! If you wish to report a potential violation or possible fraud, please click on this link at the U.S. Department of the Interior, or for further assistance call 1-888-278-3253
Consumer fraud not only harms the buyers, it also erodes the overall Native arts market and the economic and cultural livelihood of Native artists.
It’s always best to buy directly from Native Jewelers and Artists. Not only are you able to establish a relationship, but you can request a Certification of Authenticity from artists. If you are seeking high quality, hand-made native jewelry, it is best to attend reputable juried art markets throughout the nation. Here is a listing of recommended Juried Native Art Shows and Markets.
There are many reputable Native Art Galleries and Museums, however several galleries take significant percentages of each jewelry sale. Something to consider is that when you buy directly from a Native Artist you are paying them their full worth for their work.
If you are seeking authentic quality, be aware that many tourist galleries and shops tend to sell cheaper, and more mass-produced items. It’s not the same as buying directly from the artist at a Juried Native Art Show or Market.
When in Doubt, Buy Directly from Native Artists!
Purchase authentic Native American arts and crafts directly from the artist, from galleries or at special shows. Attend functions and festivals that draw Native American artists to them. Talk to them. Learn which artists create pieces that you enjoy and that are authentic with respect to materials and process.
The Council for Indigenous Arts and Culture
Native Jewelers Society is thrilled to be sponsored by CIAC, Inc. NJS artists look forward to working with CIAC, Inc. for more educational workshops and events.
The Council for Indigenous Arts and Culture (CIAC) is a non-profit 501 (c) (3) organization whose purpose is to foster, develop and contribute to the support and understanding of authentic Indian arts, crafts, customs, traditions and cultures.
Which one is Authentic, Indian Made art?
Shop with Confidence
Be Aware!
Red Flags for Fake Art
- No Artist/Tribal Info: Lack of artist signature, story (provenance), or affiliation with a recognized tribe.
- Unbelievable Prices: Items significantly cheaper than authentic pieces.
- Too Perfect/Mass-Produced: Many identical items, suggesting factory production rather than handmade.
- Vague Descriptions: Sold as “Southwestern” or “Native-inspired” to avoid IACA rules.
- “Fairytale” Backstories: Overly dramatic or unverified stories online