Jewelers Techniques and Skills

     

    Acid Etching - Etch involves immersing the metal in an acid solution while protecting certain parts with a substance called a resist (asphaltum, rosin, wax, etc.) in order to create a pattern on the metal's surface.

     

    Anodizing - Anodising, or anodizing, is a technique used to dye and/or modify the surface of a metal (usually titanium) using electrolysis. The dye enters the pores in the etched oxide surface of the metal.

     

    Appliqué- A design cut out of one piece of silver or goldand soldered to the silver base.

     

    Basse-taille - Translucent enameling that is applied over an engraved metal surface.

     

    Beveled - A stone cut on slant

     

    Burnished Finish - A directional bright finish done by hand with a burnishing tool or "burnisher."

     

    Champlevé - Enameling technique, meaning "raised field," are stamped depressions in metal that are then filled with enamel.

     

    Electroplating - Depositing one type of metal onto the surface of another type by using the process of electrolysis or an electro-chemical reaction. Plated coatings are measured in microns.

     

    Engraving - Incising designs in metal or stone with sharpened steel gravers. 

     

    Etching - A process of producing a design upon stone or metal using corrosive acid. 

     

    Filigree - Delicate jewelry or metalwork with wire soldered to a metal background in patterns. Also describes pattern-work made with twisted threads of gold and/or silver.

     

    Granulation - Tiny granules or "grains" are fusion-welded to the metal's surface to create a pattern or design.

     

    Hammered Finish - Using a cross peen hammer to leave indented hammer marks on the metal's surface.

     

    Intaglio - Intaglio is the opposite of cameo with an incised negative image. Intaglio is used to make engraved seals, where it leaves a raised design on the material being stamped.

     

    Lamination - The bonding of two different metals to create a pattern when cross-sectioned.

     

    Limoges - French technique for enameling and firing to create a pictorial image, typically a portrait, to be used as a brooch.

     

    Lost wax casting - Creating an original artwork from wax, a mold is made of the original sculpture. When the molten metal enters the mold, the wax evaporates leaving the cast metal in its place.

     

    Metal Inlay - Imbedding or inserting of sheet metal or wire into an indentation or groove in the surface of a finished piece of metal.

     

    Mirror Finish - A highly reflective surface with no visible abrasion pattern. Created with rouge, muslin, or a flannel buffing wheel.

     

    Mosaic Inlay - Patterns or designs using small pieces of stones that are not seperated by silver.

     

    Overlay - A design is cut out of one piece of silver and soldered onto a plain piece of silver abd then the design is oxidized with sulfate.

     

    Patina - Patina is a chemical film formed on the surface of metal through wear, corrosion, or oxidization due to exposure to the elements. A patina is often deliberately added by metalworkers.

     

    Pavé technique - A setting in which jewels are placed close together so as to show no metal.

     

    Piqué - Gold or silver inlayed design pattern (pricked). Also, a carbon diamond inclusion.

     

    Plique à Jour - Translucent enameling technique that has the look of stained glass.

     

    Repoussé - French for "to push back," Repoussé is a technique for creating a relief design by pressing or hammering the inside or backside of a metal surface.

     

    Reticulation - Giving the surface of the metal a rough or wrinkled texture (network or web) that has a naturally formed appearance.

    Sand Casting - Sand casting uses casting sand (a mixture of dry cement and oil) to form silver jewelry. A master sample is created and a reverse mold created in the sand. The master sample is removed and filled with molten silver to create a new piece. Sand cast molds can only be used once before being discarded.

     

    Satin Finish - A non-directional or directional finish created with abrasive compounds that produce fine lines across the surface of the metal.

     

    Scoring - Using a tool to engrave a groove or furrow into the flat surface of the metal.

     

    Shot Ball - Metal fusion using tiny shot balls fused to the metal's surface to create a pattern or design. A technique used in ancient Etruscan jewelry to add texture to the surface.

     

    Stampwork - The use of a tool with the design on one end and hammered until the design is impressed into the silver or gold.

     

    Tufa Casting - Tufa casting is named for the tufa stone, a soft lava rock into which a shape and some design elements of a piece of jewelry is carved. The tufa stone is not completely smooth, so the silver jewelry cast using this method is textured. Because heat degrades the tufa stone, a tufa stone mold can only be used once or twice before a new stone must be carved.